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As I tie Eddy to the tiny stretch of railings they’ve left unencumbered, I watch an elderly couple slowly peruse the menu outside. Had they then walked away, I would have been tempted to run after them to stop them making a terrible mistake, but fortunately they’re already seated by the time I bumble in, covered in chain grease.

Though the restaurant is otherwise deserted at 12.01, I’m still gratified when Madame remembers my reservation, and leads me to a table right by the open kitchen. Perfect. Once furnished with a bowl of cider, I turn my attention to the weighty menu, which kicks off with a lengthy mission statement outlining the criteria La Frégate has had to fulfil to be recognised as a Crêperie Gourmande. These include devoting at least 76 per cent of the menu (!) to crêpes and galettes, and retaining a crêpier with a solid knowledge of local and regional products, such as those provided by the list of suppliers underneath. It concludes with the plaintive note that ‘a Crêperie Gourmande is not a fast-food restaurant – thank you for your understanding’.

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