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After waiting in vain for the sky to brighten, I make an executive decision to retire to the médiathèque round the corner for an executive planning meeting. Even in the May gloom it’s a lovely light-filled building that would be a peaceful place to wile away a few hours if it wasn’t filled with gossiping, flirting teenagers from the local college, fortunately too absorbed with each other to notice me and my very loud shoes. It’s amazing how long everything seems to take – I’m in there four hours, and come away with three restaurant reservations, a campsite for tomorrow night, a strange apartment-hotel for this evening, and some train times scribbled in my journal. All in all, it’s not a great start to my first day on my own. I’d hoped to feel like Paddy Leigh Fermor; instead, I just feel like myself, in a bad mood.

On the plus side, the train is a swanky new one, and I seem to be the only bike booked on it – fortunately, as on locating the correct carriage I realise there’s only one space.

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