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It turned out that the chalets were off the beaten track, down a small tree shrouded and unsignposted entrance, itself off a small road, which in turn led off from the single-track road that linked Kyle to Plockton.

Eventually, after circling the area several times and ruling out all of the possibilities one by one, I drove down a small road, over a cattle grid and turned down the small entranceway to the Duirinish chalets and over another cattle grid. The small cluster of chalets was at last revealed in the glare of my headlamps. Here and there light spilled from windows running with condensation. Cars and grey rubber Zodiac dive boats on trailers were clustered around a few of them.

In the darkness I was drawn to the welcoming chinks of light escaping past drawn curtains. I parked the car, took out my dry gear bag and a sleeping bag and jumping up a few slippery wooden steps, opened the door of one of the chalets. I was immediately enveloped by a hubbub of conversation and activity. After five hours of darkness in my car the harsh glare of fluorescent strip lights assaulted my eyes as if someone had just switched on a set of football stadium floodlights.

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