Читать книгу Edge of the Map. The Mountain Life of Christine Boskoff онлайн

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Sponsorships were necessary to turn a profit on big climbs, and Scott’s bold personality and attractiveness made perfect marketing material. In addition to being the face of the company, he needed to prove his worth to draw clients. Mount Everest became priority number one. Without an Everest summit on his résumé, clients would turn to other companies before his. The competition grew increasingly fierce as guide companies perfected their business models. Though the demand in the industry proved real, it came with growing pains. Scott practiced alpine-style climbing. This method focused on highly trained climbers who packed light. Efficiency and speed were carefully balanced with safety. Alpine-style climbers rarely turned to supplemental oxygen, medication, or high-altitude workers to aid their climbs.

Though alpine style was a respected method, the reality for guided adventures was expedition-style climbing, which required monumental planning. A push to the summit was no longer two individuals and all they could carry. Expedition-style climbing enlisted high-altitude workers who spent time fixing ropes on trails in advance of clients. Supplies were shuttled up mountainsides with tents pitched to shelter clients at higher camps. Supplemental oxygen (known as “Os”) and drugs to counteract the side effects of increased altitude were widely embraced. Such climbs came with a price, upward of $60,000 at that time for an expedition that lasted many weeks and without a guaranteed summit.