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Kocher had agreed to help us get underway, paddling along for the first few days. And so it was that I found myself loading three Duluth packs and a food barrel into his Volkswagen van, and securing Hawk’s canoe on top of the vehicle.

We stood on the sidewalk in front of my apartment, debating whether José would show. Two hours had passed since the departure time we’d agreed on, and José wasn’t answering his phone.

Another hour passed before he picked up.

“Oh, we’re leaving already? My man!” he said with faux surprise. “I’ll be over in a minute. Gotsta have music, dawg.”

I had warned him about taking electronic devices. They would be waterlogged at some point, I explained. And besides, I added, “You won’t need music. The wind and the water make their own.” Though I knew how lame it would sound to José, I meant this.

Another hour later, José rolled up in the passenger seat of a black Escalade. His new roommate, Homegirl J, was behind the wheel. He slid down to the street holding a shopping bag from Wal-Mart. He had on the white tank top and blue polyester shorts he would wear for the rest of the summer.

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