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By now the gradient has eased with the valley stretching ahead, steep-walled and forested. Keep to the road until it makes a left-hand hairpin, where you keep ahead on a footpath alongside the stream all the way to Rosenlaui. As you approach Gschwantenmad – a group of old barns and farmhouses at 1304m (2¼hrs) – the valley opens to reveal the Engelhörner peaks above to the left, the broken snout of the Rosenlaui Glacier, and the Wetterhorn at the head of the valley. Remain left of the stream, and in another 15mins or so you will arrive at Rosenlaui, with the massive Victorian Hotel Rosenlaui (beds & dorm places Tel 033 971 29 12 www.rosenlaui.ch).

While visiting Rosenlaui a recommended side-trip goes to the Gletscherschlucht (entry fee), a narrow glacier-carved gorge with spectacular cascades just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel.

ROUTE 8

Meiringen (595m) – Schwarzwaldalp (1458m) – Grosse Scheidegg (1962m) – Grindelwald (1034m)

Start Meiringen (595m) Distance 21km Height gain 1367m Height loss 928m Grade 2–3 Time 7½hrs Location Southwest of Meiringen

This is the classic walker’s route to Grindelwald; a trek that’s well worth tackling, either in its entirety or, if you consider the distance too far for one day, by breaking the journey with an overnight spent at some midway point (several gasthofs are passed en route). Alternatively you could take the bus to Rosenlaui or Schwarzwaldalp and walk from there. The whole route between Meiringen and Grindelwald is served by bus, so with several halts along the way, it’s perfectly feasible to cut the walk short at almost any given point, should the weather turn bad or you become too tired to continue.

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