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In windy conditions, especially with westerlies, the top of the cliffs, especially The Mess of Pottage, can be very exposed. The Fiacaill Buttress is much more sheltered then, but the approach slopes can have dangerous slab build-up in these conditions. With a northerly airstream these cliffs are often shrouded in cloud.
The Mess of Pottage
NH 998 032 Altitude 1060m North-west facing
The left-most buttress; the main section is seamed with cracks and corners, while the right side is slabby low down and easy angled above. In the centre of the main section a big stepped fault slants up slightly left and is used by several routes.
The Opening Break 100m IV,5A Cunningham and A Fyffe, November 1990
The obvious left-facing corner on the left of the buttress – low in the grade. Start below the corner and climb cracks up the initial slabby steps, with a detour right then back left at the first bulge. Climb the corner, which can be icy. Above, go right to easy ground and follow a fault up left below a steeper wall until twin cracks lead to more easy ground and the top. It is possible to avoid the first pitch and the crux by slanting in rightwards to the corner from higher up, making it a Grade III.