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Although it was very dark beneath us, the underwater visibility was still crystal clear. Looking down the downline, as my eyes traced its path down and slightly up-current, I was astonished to see the dim silhouette of the wreck far below us. The dim pinpoints of the four divers’ torches, clustered in two pairs ahead of us, were visible at different points of the wreck. I could make out the upturned hull of the stern, and even see the long free section of the port prop shaft leading out from its tube to its circular bearing bracket, supported on struts connected to the main hull. This was the last memory I had from my dives on the wreck 20 years earlier – I’d never thought that I would be back here to see it again.

In the slack water, I was able to move away from the downline and make for the fantail of the wreck, which was lying upside down on the seabed. The seabed around the wreck was hard shale with scattered large Norwegian glacier melt boulders some several metres high. There is no silt and the wreck is clean, uncovered by sand.