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Beyond the first camp, you face the trip’s biggest obstacle, a 1,000-foot climb over the top of Big Hump. This rocky mass, left behind by ancient glaciers, requires two dozen short, fairly steep, and rather tiring switchbacks to conquer. Fortunately, partway up is a perfect rest stop at an overlook with a superb view of the forested Duckabush Valley. Across the valley to the south rises prominent St. Peters Dome, whose towering sheer sides make it look as if it were transplanted from California’s Yosemite Valley. Beyond this viewpoint, more uphill walking takes you past a nice but not as impressive viewpoint before you come to the top of Big Hump.

It is nearly all downhill from here as switchbacks descend 700 feet to the cascading Duckabush River just above where the water cuts a gorge around Big Hump. Not far upstream is Five Mile Camp (actually at 5.2 miles), a popular site for camping and fishing, with room for a few tents. Beyond here the trail stays in valley forests, making many small ups and downs but never straying too far from the water. There are several possible campsites along the way, but if you go beyond 6.7 miles, where the trail enters the national park, you will need a park wilderness permit (self-issued at the park entrance). The park also prohibits firearms and pets, as well as fires above 3,500 feet elevation. Hardy hikers can continue their wilderness adventure, reaching lovely Ten Mile Camp at (you guessed it) a little over 10 miles and eventually climbing to the gorgeous high meadows and lakes around Marmot Lake and O’Neil Pass. Both of these destinations are more than 20 miles into the heart of the glorious Olympic backcountry.

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