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Just before reaching the light, there are steps on the right down to a memorial viewpoint, commemorating Robert John Brown, who lived close by in Tobermory, and whose father, Archibald, founded Browns shop in Tobermory. This is a useful place to spend a few minutes identifying distant landmarks, not least the squat triangle of Ben Hiant across the sound.

Press on along a clear path to reach the former lighthouse keepers’ cottages at Rubha nan Gall and the lighthouse, first lit in 1857, and automated in the 1960s. Going further, beyond the light, takes you into difficult terrain, and is not advised.

Lighthouse, Rubha nan Gall

Tobermory

Northwards lies so-called Bloody Bay, where in 1480 a great sea battle took place between John, the last Lord of the Isles, and his son Angus. On that day the tide came ashore red with blood. And, as Jim Crumley explains in The Heart of Mull, so it is that the oystercatcher owes its red beak and legs to its forebears who waded along the shore on that fateful day.