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Turn left along the southern towpath, passing a tearoom alongside Neptune’s Staircase. GGW markers divert left, but you can simply cross the road and railway ahead. Follow the towpath for another 1km. With Loch Linnhe visible ahead, turn down left on a broad path to join a street near its end. From the street end, cross grass between houses (left) and a football pitch (right), to rejoin the outward route alongside Loch Linnhe.

2 BEN NEVIS AND THE AONACHS

Ben Nevis half-way plateau (Route 7)

Ben Nevis is a hill of two halves – except that the northern half has been carried away by a glacier and isn’t there. Instead there’s the hollow of the Allt a’ Mhuilinn burn, and the biggest crag in Britain.

The very popular Mountain Track, on the mountain’s western side, misses all that. It’s a harsh trudge on a stony path, and Ben Nevis being the biggest, it’s the harshest trudge in all UK hillwalking. If you enjoy the Mountain Track, then every one of Scotland’s remaining 281 hills will be even better! Round the back, however, there’s the Carn Mor Dearg Arête. Not quite a scramble, it’s a spectacular granite ridge, with an outstanding view of the northern crags. Meanwhile the Ledge Route, which is a scramble (albeit a fairly easy one), gets right in among those crags.