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Croda del Becco from Forcella Sora Forno

The wood is much thicker and shadier now, and the lake is left well behind as you penetrate the inner silent valleys. As an imposing rock barrier is surmounted on a zigzag path aided by fixed chains, the going is relentless. Ignore a fork L (2186m, path n.3) before the path enters the forbidding corridor aptly named Forno, which is a ‘furnace’ on scorching summer days when the towering rock flanks block out any hopes of a breeze.

You eventually emerge at the minor pass Forcella Sora Forno (2388m, 2hr 50min), which overlooks a refuge on the edge of a vast plateau. This is the start point for the optional but highly recommended ascent of Croda del Becco.

Croda del Becco (2hr return time)

If you feel up to a further 450m climb, this entails a partially exposed aided stretch, which may feel more difficult in descent. For anyone with a head for heights and an appreciation of spectacular views, it is essential on a good weather day. You zigzag up the steep southeastern corner of the mountain and soon reach fixed chain, where the path is a little exposed along near vertical rock strata. The top section is wider and levels out somewhat keeping to the L side of the crest, and cairns mark the way. It becomes surprisingly grassy and you may see the rock grouse that nest here, if not the well-established herd of ibex that graze peacefully, ignoring the tourists. A cross marks the summit of Croda del Becco (2810m, 1hr 15min), a simply breathtaking spot where 360° views take in a surprising number of Dolomites, including Picco di Vallandro to the E and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo further back, the Tofane S and even the Puez altopiano SW, not to mention the lake at your feet and the snow-capped Austrian ranges spreading across the northern horizon. Return the same way, taking extra care on the aided section.