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Soon after that creek, the steep descent to Hemlock Crossing begins, and the trail (one that sees more stock traffic than foot traffic) becomes loose and rocky. Breathe a sigh of relief when the trail levels off and winds through granite outcrops, reaching a wet, meadowy area and then dropping down to two large campsites at Hemlock Crossing (7500’; 11S 303763 4167984). Here, the San Joaquin pours over a granite lip into two large, inviting, chilly pools. If the two main sites are occupied, cross the bridge and turn right (south), going a short distance to a campsite (probably illegal but tolerated, according to rangers) at a large waterfall on the river.

AT HEMLOCK CROSSING

Spend a layover day fishing or exploring the terrain to the north by taking the left fork north after crossing the bridge here. This trail gradually rises up and away from the river before passing through Yosemite-esque Stevenson Meadow (where, if you’re sharing this area with a pack station group, you’ll find the stock). Approximately 4 miles from Hemlock Crossing, the maintained trail ends where it meets the river again, and so does this description. Note that adventurous hikers rave about the scenic, untracked high country beyond this point: Bench Canyon to the northwest and Twin Island Lakes to the northeast, hard by the west side of the Ritter Range.

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