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On the west and south (leeward) sides, once you escape Honolulu and reach the coast near Nanakuli, the panorama of beach and cliff is just as striking and nearly as empty. The drier climate here leaves the coast clad not in rainforest but in scrub, soft and gray-green at a distance, scratchy and impenetrable close-up. Few public trails penetrate this region, but at the westernmost end of it at Kaena Point, you’ll find a rewarding wilderness-hiking experience unlike any other on Oahu.


Along a trail high above Honolulu, branches frame Diamond Head and Waikiki’s highrises.

Resist the temptation to confine your visit to Waikiki. There really are other places to stay on Oahu. No matter where you stay, get out of your hotel and savor Oahu firsthand. That’s where the best of Oahu is! The island has splendid dayhiking, though no backpacking to speak of. There are urban walks through gardens with spectacularly strange plants; trails where you’ll find the rare fragrant white hibiscus native only to Hawaii; trails that lead to cool swimming holes on tropical streams; trails where the sheer exuberance of tropical growth and the richly varied music of birds inspire awe; and trails that offer spectacular views—even overbuilt Honolulu is spectacular from such a vantage point. How do I know? I walked every trail that’s used as a trip in this book at least once, many more often.

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