Читать книгу The Isle of Skye. Graded walks and scrambles throughout Skye, including the Cuillin онлайн

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In this first foothold corner of Skye lie the highest summits outwith the Black and Red Cuillin. Just east of Kyleakin, on a small promontory, stands Castle Maol, sometimes referred to as Dun Akin. The main wall was massively damaged in a storm on 1 February 1948. The castle is claimed to have been the residence of a Norwegian princess, known as ‘Saucy Mary’, who may be the princess who lies buried on the summit of Beinn na Caillich.

Typically, this ancient ruin, the very first thing that used to be encountered as you crossed onto the Island, is a classic example of the quagmire you descend into the moment any inquiry is made into the fascinating history of Skye.

Much of Skye’s history is well documented, but the truth about Castle Maol is obscure. According to legend, the castle was built in the 12th century by Mary, who is said to have devised a chain across the kyle from a point below the castle, to prevent foreign vessels from passing until they had paid a toll. One book, however, records: ‘The older part [of the castle] is thought to date back to the 10th century; while the newer portion is possibly early 15th’. It was certainly there in 1513 that a meeting of clan chiefs met to raise Sir Donald MacDonald of Lochalsh to the status of Lord of the Isles. Jim Crumley (The Heart of Skye) claims that Beinn na Cailleach ‘marks the burial chamber of an 8th-century Norse princess who lived at Castle Maol’. Seton Gordon (The Charm of Skye) plays safe, and only ventures to suggest that the princess ‘may have been the same proud ruler who dwelt in Caisteal Maol’. The truth is, it doesn’t matter. No one knows for certain, yet so much intrigue and fascination flows from this one crumbling edifice, and sets a standard by which inquiring minds will clatter away ad infinitum over myriad similar circumstances and queries that Skye has to offer.