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Serious malfunctions usually announce their presence through the trigger; either the trigger is locked in the forward position and won’t go back, or it’s locked in the back position and won’t return. Remember what I said about ‘non-diagnostic’? We don’t need to waste time trying to diagnose the problem based on where the trigger is stuck, because the solutions for both of the symptoms are pretty much the same.

Regardless of the actual position, if the trigger is locked and won’t move, your first step is called ‘tap-stroke.’ This is not too different than the ‘tap-rack’ that’s taught to auto shooters, and it’s done for much the same reason. With the heel of your hand, sharply strike the left side of the cylinder and frame, then stroke the trigger.

If the problem is an unlatched cylinder (perhaps because of a bent cylinder yoke or debris between the yoke and crane), the tap-stroke will latch it solidly and the gun should be running again. If the cause was a self-engaged safety lock on a modern Smith & Wesson, the tap-stroke may clear it. It’s been my experience that it clears shop-induced test failures about 15 percent of the time. It’s not a great percentage, I’ll give you that, but there isn’t anything else other than digging the gun’s key out of your pocket and trying to disengage the lock, which sometimes doesn’t work either!

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