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For this book, the North Pennines provide a useful counterbalance to the Dark Peak of Derbyshire, but are considerably less frequented by walkers and enjoy much greater altitude, in Cross Fell reaching to 893m (almost 3000ft). It may be tempting to dismiss these moors as unappetising fare enriched occasionally by the taste of something more spicy. In the right mood, on the right day, the North Pennines will be seen in their true colours: a place of ever-changing hues and with a subtlety of flavour that will please all but the most jaded of palates.


WALK ONE

Thack Moor and Black Fell

Start pointRenwick NY596436Distance18km (11¼ miles)Height gain525m (1725ft)GradestrenuousTime6–7hrsMapsOrdnance Survey OL31 (North Pennines: Teesdale and Weardale)Getting thereRoadside parking at Townhead in Renwick, near the churchAfter-walk refreshmentPubs in Kirkoswald

The soft, moulded grassy fells that gather to the north of the A686 trans-Pennine Penrith to Alston road are only rarely visited by walkers. Solitude, peace and tranquillity are therefore found here in abundance, along pathways seldom trodden and below massive skies. The Hartside Pass is well known and popular with bikers in particular, but the East Fellside village of Renwick knows no such fame – a small, close-knit community going quietly about its business.

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