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Assuming you follow the E shoreline (a path also follows the W shore) go past the famous Idwal Slabs (invariably dotted with climbers), up a man-made stairway, clamber across the rocky rift of a streambed and then, when the path gives up the struggle, scramble up the downfall of boulders to the cleft itself (Twll Du in Welsh, Black Hole in English). It is hard to reconcile the peaceful scene looking back over Idwal and Ogwen with the harsh, evil gash above. Even on a sunny day it is an eerie place, while in mist…

Looking through the Devil’s Kitchen to Pen yr Ole Wen

Beneath the cliffs a cairned trail forges SE up a shelf of splintered rocks to emerge on a broad marshy plateau with Llyn y Cwn (Lake of the Dogs) a stone’s throw ahead. Few places are more desolate in winter. The gap in the hills channels the full fury of the wind, whipping the lake into a frenzy of rushing waves. To view the top of the Devil’s Kitchen (uncairned) follow the stream that issues from the NW tip of the tarn. To locate the trail for descent take a bearing of 60° from the N tip of the lake and in 300yd you meet the cairned path.