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The damp ferny cave that gives the mountain its name is clearly visible from the road about two thirds of the way up, and slightly L of, the prominent gully that rends its N face. The foot of the gully is best reached along the old road from the farm of Gwern Gof Isaf at 685600. Thereafter all you have to look forward to is a brute of a struggle up a treadmill of unstable scree and sparse grey grass. Rampant heather takes over as soon as the angle abates, but by then the damage is done with frayed tempers and dusty, aching limbs.

The Capel Curig route (GL17)

A stile by the side of Joe Brown’s mountain wear shop at Capel Curig signals the start of the old road to Ogwen. Follow it for about 5–10min, past the farmhouse, then break away L up the rock-studded hillside to the crest of the ridge. The route used to be waymarked in red but the signs have long since disappeared and the simplest course nowadays is to follow your nose, dodging cliffs and bog as best you can. Once atop the ridge a path permits a relaxing walk with plenty of opportunity to enjoy the views.