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Fortunately the ravages of industry can be ameliorated, though not entirely eliminated, by judicious route selection. Whereas Manod Mawr (the highest of the three Ffestiniog peaks) and its nameless acolyte to the N are most conveniently approached from Blaenau Ffestiniog, you have only to opt for a slightly more circuitous routing from Cwm Teigl for a thoroughly enjoyable day. Similarly it is well worth driving to the top of the Crimea Pass to start the ascent of Moel Penamnen.

Viewed from across the Migneint or from the Rhinogs, when the quarry workings are hidden, Manod Mawr is a striking sight – its squat dumpy demeanour conveying a sense of power. Moel Penamnen is equally distinctive, even inspiring, with a leonine profile that always makes it seem a bigger challenge than it actually is, especially when a dusting of snow adds lustre to the scene.

A glance at the map reveals a generous sprinkling of lakes. Sadly few have survived unscathed to offer the opportunity for restful contemplation. Llyn y Manod is an exception. Despite being so near the centre of industry it nestles in a quiet little hollow that hides it from all but the most intimate gaze, a haven of peace.