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Two cwms thrust deeply into the heart of the Arans. In the N Cwm Croes provides ready access to Creiglyn Dyfi where a simple but tiring plod up the grassy nose gives you the main ridge, midway between Benllyn and Fawddwy on the bare plateau of Erw y Ddafad-ddu. Personally I would save that for a quick way home. Far better to tackle the N ridge head-on from Llanuwchllyn, a pearl of a walk with Benllyn's rocky crown in your sights all the way. Having achieved that, why not press on to Fawddwy across the bouldery neck (too wide to be a ridge, too narrow to be a plateau) which is dotted with vestigial tarns and mildly reminiscent of the Glyders?

The S cwm, Cywarch, is grander altogether, exuding a rugged appeal. You can do one of two things: either climb directly out of the head of the cwm (easier than it looks), close to the tumultuous crags and with only the music of the stream for company, or you can walk up the side of the subsidiary cwm of Hengwm, where the dark drama of crags is replaced by grassy slopes that plummet unhindered into one of the most poignantly lonely scenes in Wales.

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