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A steepish rise brings you alongside the stream with bleaker, more open terrain ahead. Unfortunately the grassy mound of Foel Hafod-fynydd shuts out all but the most tantalising glimpses of the high Arans beyond. The track starts to veer N now, and if you stayed with it would take you across Bwlch Sirddyn to Cwm Croes via the abandoned farmstead of Cwm-fynnon (883243). (On grit all the way apart from a sketchy patch over the Bwlch – see ssss1.) However, for today's walk you should leave the track now for one of the oozy little trails that wend across the S flanks of Hafod to Creiglyn Dyfi, before pulling up to Erw y Ddafad-ddu to finish as in ssss1.

Aran Fawddwy

It is a moot point whether Benllyn or Fawddwy is the finer viewpoint. Rather like Mahler and Bruckner, it all depends on your mood. Fawddwy frames Creiglyn Dyfi, the birthplace of the Dovey, in its giant turrets; but otherwise there is precious little in it. Benllyn, with its focus on the rugged wilder N, plays King to Fawddwy's Queen and the softer hills of the S. Happily both peaks have the gift – shared by so many of the mid-Wales hills – of transporting you into a world where the works of man are subsumed in a blue-green fantasy of hills, woodlands and dales extending as far as the eye can see.

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