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The summit is an airy perch of heather and bilberries, miniature rocky outcrops and playful pools (one close by the cairn, a cluster a short way down-slope SE). To gild the lily, just below the beautifully sculptured cairn, a cleft in the rocks provides the perfect shelter from the wind.

It is easy to list the peaks on display – Snowdonia, the Arenigs, Hirnants, Berwyns, Arans, Cader Idris, Rhinogs – but that is only the hors d'oeuvre. The majesty of the scene owes at least as much to the virgin wilderness, where works of man are subservient to Nature's creation; to the blend of rustic vales with rounded hills and the multi-coloured patchwork of marsh and heather, forest and rock.

Allt-lwyd route (AG22)

Cwm yr Allt-lwyd deserves to be better known; it offers both the easiest line of approach to Dduallt and a base for a superb round also taking in Rhobell Fawr.

Cwm yr Alltlwyd has a strangely forbidding air. Maybe it is the bleak treeless slopes; treeless, that is, apart from the man-made forest higher up the vale. Perhaps it is the absence of human settlement; for there are more ruins than inhabited dwellings.