Читать книгу Not the West Highland Way. Diversions over mountains, smaller hills or high passes for 8 of the WH Way's 9 stages онлайн

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The fairly good path continues for a couple of hours, through a heathery slot in the hills. It’s Gleann Iolairean, Eagle Valley. You might see that eagle soaring overhead; you’ll almost certainly see some ravens. Come out to the next big reservoir. Now if you turn left, it’s up along a stony stream with waterfalls, and alder trees, and grassy riverbanks for the path; then gradually down again as you’re now in Glen Nevis. You walk below big Ben Nevis on one side, the shapely Mamores range on the other. The heather gets denser, the river bigger, and the air gets slightly cosier as you lose height. Suddenly you’re in the meadow at the glen’s end, with the Steall waterfall tumbling over grey quartzite, and the great tree-hung Nevis Gorge. Then it’s out to the youth hostel for another big meal.

If the twined-together routes of Parts One to Three are the stalk, then Part Four is the flower. As the train clatters south across Rannoch Moor, your feet are sore but your head is filling up with ideas. Outwards and onwards lies the whole of the Scottish Highlands.