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I visited the Old Fort, but resisted the temptation to head onwards along the new Great Glen Way. It’d be a lot less Great than Ben Lui and the Buachaille Beag. After five days, I was fit for the Nevisport carbohydrate whammy – macaroni with chips – and their pictures of Alpine ridges failed to arouse the usual jealous stirrings.

Scotland’s weather is unpredictable. So often, it leaves plans stymied and unfulfilled. We’ll have to do that blizzard plod up the West Highland Way another year.

PART 1

THE HIGH ROAD AND THE LOW


Arriving at the summit Beinn a’ Chrulaiste (Route 11) with Buachaille Etive Mor behind

MILNGAVIE TO DRYMEN

The train out to Milngavie passes through groves of weedy sycamores, with an understorey of spike-topped fencing and ground cover of brambles and plastic litter. Shrieks of the electric railway combine with warnings on the loudspeakers: don’t forget your luggage, passenger safety notices are displayed within the carriage. All this makes it quite clear why one needs to get out of Glasgow, on foot, and head north among the mountains.

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