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The third natural jewel of the park are the wetlands of the Marismas del Río Barbate. The marshes are on the main migratory route to Africa and are also home to a large population of resident wading birds: the dykes that criss-cross the marismas (marshes) are perfect ornithological viewing platforms. Stretches of the marshes were drained in the last century to create grazing for livestock but much of this land has been returned to its natural state.

The area is blessed with one of Andalucía’s most exquisite towns, Vejer de la Frontera, which fans out along a ridge 7km back from the coast. The old town is an architectural arabesque, with buzzing bars and restaurants, and is home to a fast-growing ex-pat community. Barbate is very different in feel, a modern town with dingy suburbs and one of the highest unemployment rates in Spain. The town has one of the largest fishing fleets in Spain and is best known for the annual almadraba when shoals of tuna are making their way from the Atlantic to the warmer waters of the Mediterranean: the fish are netted in much the same way as they were in Roman times. Los Caños de Meca is home to a multi-ethnic crowd of New Agers and is quiet in all but the summer months. It has a couple of excellent fish restaurants.

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