Читать книгу Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas. Walks, climbs & scrambles over 3000M онлайн

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Jacques de Lépiney was one of the leading French Alpinists and climbers in the early 1900s. A founding member of the French Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), later joined by other famous climbers such as Pierre Allain, Lépiney made numerous first ascents in the Mont Blanc massif, bouldering routes in Fontainebleau, and undertook many first ascents in the Moroccan High Atlas. He was also instrumental in establishing CAF Maroc. Along with Jean Dresch, he wrote the definitive topographic guide for the Toubkal region in 1938, which remains to this day the best guide to that region (see ssss1).

View from near Tizi Aguelzim towards Tizi n-Tagharat (Route 9)

Deviation from normal south cwm route on Toubkal (Route 24)

Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, and, with peace in the country, exploration, climbing and trekking in the High Atlas has slowly developed. Notables such as the Scottish climber and write Hamish Brown and the French Michael Peyron have been very active. Between them they completed a number of long-distance traverses and have written extensively about their adventures (see Appendix A). There has been more recent activity by the French on the huge rock walls of Taghia in the east of the range, and the Spanish, principally, have climbed in the Toubkal massif. In addition, in recent winters the climber-camerman Andrew Stokes-Rees has been responsible for some new extreme mixed routes on the 4000m summits in the Toubkal massif. Compared to the Alps, however, the High Atlas range is still very undeveloped, with acres of virgin rock and countless unclimbed snow gullies beckoning.