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Mosque in Amsouzart

Taking photographs can be a tricky business. Cultural sensitivities abound. Often children will ask for their photo to be taken and then expect money or sweets in return. Women will hide their faces, while some men will eagerly pose. If you have enjoyed some tea in a house, you may ask if you can take a photograph of the family. If the answer is no, don't ask again. A good but expensive way to take photographs is with a digital Polaroid camera that prints out the image immediately, so that you can give it to the family. Then take another photo with your main digital camera for your own keeping. If you are intending to return to that same village in a few months' time, offer to take a photograph and have it printed off for them – but do make sure you can keep this promise.

When trekking through a village you may be pestered by local children asking you to take their photo in return for money or a sweet. Alternatively they may ask you for some ‘argent’ (money), ‘bon-bon’ (sweets) or a ‘stilo’ (biro). Without wishing to be over-directional on this issue, the author's advice would be to resist giving sweets, as dental hygiene is aspirational at best in many villages. Children also have enough sugar intake with their mint tea. Money should not be offered, as this only encourages further begging. Biros can be given, but it is best if these are handed in bulk to a school teacher to distribute so that the child is encouraged to attend school! Balloons are good, as are bubble-blowing products, but again gifts such as these should really only be handed out to children of families that you have already had some dealings with.