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7: Silvretta and Rätikon Alps

In the far east of Switzerland these connecting groups share borders with Austria and Liechtenstein, but while the Silvretta is mostly a range of crystalline rock, with small glaciers and snowfields, the Rätikon is limestone and almost completely ice-free. To the northwest the Alpstein massif has the famous 2502m Säntis as its symbolic crown. Low-altitude but high-quality rock climbs can be enjoyed on the nearby Altmann and multi-turreted Kreuzberge. But the best climbing is to be had among the Rätikon’s big walls – Sulzfluh and Kirchlispitzen especially. Reminiscent of the Dolomites, this narrow range bursts from a chaos of boulder and scree, with magnificent rock gardens at their feet. Highest of the Rätikon peaks, the 2964m Schesaplana marks the Swiss-Austrian border. By the normal route it is an easy ascent, while a small glacier is draped on its northwest (Austrian) flank. Larger glaciers remain on the north side of the Silvretta group, where traditional-style ascents and spring ski tours are common. But the range comes into its own for the mountain walker in summer, when tempting hut-to-hut circuits are easy to plan and challenging to put into practice.