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Night dives are particularly rewarding here, in fact the variety of life is excellent. Sea urchins of several species, including a couple of exuberantly colorful ones, teach careful underwater movements. Gaudy shrimp and crabs come out of their lairs to scavenge; some bright red, and others imaginatively camouflaged.

AT A GLANCE Bintan Reef type: Shallow fringing reefs Access: 15 min-1 hr by boat, depending on location Visibility: Poor, 3-7 meters Current: Almost none Coral: In places, quite good Fish: Good varieties and numbers Highlights: Nudibranchs by day; crustaceans by night

Exploring Bintan

An old Mexican saying goes: "So far from God, but so close to the United States" and divers thinking about Bintan could well be forgiven for giving this their own spin: "So far from eastern Indonesia (scuba heaven), but so close to Singapore (lousy diving)." But being close to Singapore gives distinct advantages to Bintan (we're not sure about Mexico): funds for infrastructure, including resort development, and developing professionally run diving programs.

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