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When it comes to climbs and scrambles, Perthshire may not compare with other parts of the Highlands. But when it comes to walks, here are big Ben Lawers and Crieff’s little Knock; Rannoch Moor and the banks of the Tay. For green mountains, for broad snowy ridges, for woodland paths, wide riverbanks, and long-striding tracks across the empty moors – Perthshire is the place.


Rannoch Station (Route 59)


PART ONE

COMRIE AND CRIEFF


Stuc na Cabaig, on the west ridge of Beinn Dearg (Route 2)

The Scots word ‘couthie’ means civilised, pleasant and friendly. It’s altogether applicable to Crieff and Comrie, the last villages of the Lowlands along the Highland line. Well-laid, smooth-surfaced village paths venture boldly into the harsh heather, re-emerging along a wide river back to a Georgian main street. The wonders of Crieff include the monumental Hydro hotel, from the time when an exciting holiday consisted of drinking nasty-tasting healthy water. Comrie, meanwhile, boasts a white-painted church, and an encampment of historic Nissen huts, some of them listed for conservation.

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