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Two weeks? Then do one of the peaks or trips described in this book, then fit in Toubkal quickly (you’ll be fit by then) and end with two days at Essaouira. You’ll be back for more. Starting with Toubkal and ending up lying at the hut in the misery of altitude sickness is a very poor alternative – but I see it all the time. Taking time to reach and climb any of the big mountains allows one to become acclimatised, both to altitude and the heat and effort required in the Atlas. I don’t know why, but people who would never dream of attempting a 4000m summit in the Alps as soon as they arrive think it perfectly OK to do so in Morocco. The result is often distressing and, of course, potentially dangerous. Both altitude sickness and heatstroke are worth avoiding.

With the big push to get pistes (dirt tracks) or goudrons (surfaced/tarmac roads) and electricity into as many mountain villages as possible many pleasant old mule tracks are being destroyed. Most valleys, however, will have mule tracks or paths on both flanks, so one can walk on the friendlier side. Resist walking on pistes – they are hard and hot on the feet and enervating for the soul. It isn’t possible to keep tabs on all such recent developments, so this is a general warning.

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