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This has forever remained one of my happiest memories of Atlas trekking. Just going, with minimal pre-knowledge, the fun of discovery, decisions to make, and taking the consequences. By the time we came this way again on GTAM95 there was a caïd’s office under Bou Iblane and roads were being upgraded for surfacing. Today you could just drive up from the north, even Fes, and do Moussa ou Salah as a day-walk, and something similar from the south-east for Bou Naceur. But take Ali, find a mule, and make something of it. You’re not likely to meet any other trekkers.

ROUTE THREE

Jbel Ayyachi (Ayachi) 3747m and Jbel Masker 3265m

CommitmentSeriously big mountains. Masker can be done as a good 1325m day-ascent from Tounfite, but access to Ayyachi is more difficult and would take 2–3 days if traversing as described, or a very long day by its easiest option – straight up from the N.Maps100: Tounfite, Rich, Midelt. Route sketches in MP2 and BD.TextsMP2 describes several routes (sketches) on both mountains, as does BD, who also has some illustrations.Travel to startMidelt, Zeïda and Boumia are staging posts to Tounfite. Midelt is an option for Ayyachi (as described), but the easiest ascent is from the Cirque de Jaffer road. With the start at 2150m, and the highest point 3747m, a long day would be needed for up and down.Local assistanceNot really needed for Masker or Ayyachi from the N, but for Ayyachi’s traverse contacting a guide and mule in Midelt would be helpful.

These extensive giants dip beyond horizons, east and west, and offer good sport at the eastern extremity of the Atlas Mountains.