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Vila Kordela (06905-228) is a former hunting lodge that is now open to all. It has 10 rooms, but doesn’t offer food unless ordered in advance.

From the final bus stop in the village of Divchovoto (650m), set off upstream along the asphalt lane signed ‘Kordela 5km’. The road runs gently up the valley, and after about 20mins reaches a drinking fountain and shelter. Continue upstream, after another 10mins passing an imposing white building tucked away on the left behind a high wall. Some 15mins further on you reach the entrance to the Central Balkan National Park and the boundary of the Boatin Reserve. The trail proper begins here, breaking off left from the road into the beech forest. However, if it is late in the day and you need accommodation, you could keep on up the road for 5mins to vila Kordela. If you do stay the night, it is well worth venturing out after dark to listen for owls. The tawny owl, Tengmalm’s owl and the Ural owl all inhabit the region. Leaving the road and entering the Boatin Reserve, follow the yellow-blazed trail across a couple of wooden footbridges before climbing up to join an old forest path marked ‘Putya naBenkovski’ (‘the track of Benkovski’).

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