Читать книгу Ridges of Snowdonia. The best ridge walking онлайн

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From a little way above the romantically situated Hafod y Rhiw, the circuit of ridges can now be seen almost in its entirety. Up on the left is the broad shoulder which begins the steady rise to Pen Llithrig y Wrach; while at the apparent head of Cwm Eigiau (the cwm is in fact longer and curves rightwards out of sight) stands the peak of Pen yr Helgi Du, beyond which a long ridge leads up to Carnedd Llewelyn at the true head of the cwm. The rest is hidden; although its lower arm can be seen, raised up from the far bank of the lake. All in all it seems more than a fair distance for a walk, which indeed it is.

Once on the shoulder itself, an appreciation of the scale of the undertaking is taken out of mere contemplation and planted firmly in the reality of choosing a thousand footfalls across the uncountable acres of pathless upland. And yet progress is made, height won, views gained – including an awesome glimpse down improbably angled screes towards black Llyn Cowlyd. One little jump…

The summit of Pen Llithrig y Wrach is an unpretentious place. Just a little pile of stones against which to lean a rucsac; and a small field in which to strut and flex your shoulders. There are strange views into Ogwen: of Gallt yr Ogof, unusually dominant; of Moel Siabod, a restive whale; and of Tryfan, pinched up from the valley base like a troublesome pimple. Over there is another land, another day; but the way ahead lies east, instead, along the rim of this more immediate place, more pressing day.