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A little further on, break up right to gain the ridge at a grass mound; and then follow it in its entirety to Carnedd Dafydd – first along a grass crest, then more steeply over boulders, and finally on the scree dome of the summit1 (1½ hrs).

Circle the head of Cwm Llafar, along a rocky path above the cliffs of Ysgolion Duon, to a shallow col, Bwlch Cyfryw Drum2 – below Carnedd Llewelyn. Continue up the scree path to the summit3 (1 hr).

Head tentatively north of west to find the path leading to Yr Elen. It goes down to the col4 above Llyn Caseg before rising – curving rightwards – to the flat summit.5 Descend a blunt ridge on the west side, keeping on the left (Cwm Llafar) flank when in doubt, to a level and grassy section. Continue along this shallow ridge, passing two rock bluffs.6 Either descend immediately into Cwm Llafar and gain the track on the far side, or continue along the shallow ridge to its end before crossing. Both are wet. Return as for the ascent (1½ hrs).



Bethesda is a sorry place. It seems always to be raining here, so that the main street twists through a hotch-potch of buildings like some grimy northern canal. Trapped by that vision, its people are wearing long coats and longer faces as they patrol the towpath. Car drivers wind up their windows and weave a way through, fearful of stopping in case they never get started again. The National Park boundary skirts the town limits and tries to look the other way.

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