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In the early 20th century the military governor of the Canary Islands, General Franco, launched a military coup from Tenerife. His subsequent victory in the infamous Civil War was followed by a long repressive dictatorship. The Canary Islands remained free of the worst strife of the war, but also became something of a backwater. It was largely as a result of Franco’s later policies that the Canary Islands were developed in the 1960s as a major destination for northern Europeans.

Since 1982 the islands have been an autonomous region and there have been calls for complete independence from Spain. The islanders regard themselves as ‘Canarios’ first and ‘Spanish’ second, though they are also fiercely loyal to their own particular islands, towns and villages.

Getting there

The most spectacular walking area on Tenerife, in the national park, has only one expensive hotel

There are plenty of direct flights to Tenerife, scheduled or charter, from a range of British and European airports. The hardest part is checking all the ‘deals’ to find an airport, operator, schedules and prices that suit. Most international flights land at Tenerife Sur, though a few land at Tenerife Norte.