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The granita on the other hand is a marvellous thirst-quenching invention for the hot summertime – a finely shaved ice mixture flavoured with sweetened lemon juice (al limone), pureed strawberries (alla fragola) or whatever takes the maker’s fancy, even al caffè, coffee, popular breakfast fare. Rumour has it that al gelso, or mulberry, is the best and most loved of all. Thick cream is an optional but favourite topping. One special icy treat prepared in Palermo for Saint Rosalia’s feast day (September 4th) is gelo al mellone, made with watermelon and scented with jasmine flowers. Lastly, try latte di mandorla, a sweet almond-based drink.

Climate and history have produced an excellent and currently expanding range of wines. One widely distributed substantial red is Corvo, Duca di Salaparuta, though connoisseurs will appreciate superior full-bodied wines such as Cerasuolo di Vittoria (from the Ragusa province), as well as several recommended reds from the Cefalù hinterland – namely the Passomaggio and Cabernet Sauvignon from Castelbuono. Top grade Shiraz has also recently emerged. Lighter vintages are the red from the flanks of Etna (with a guaranteed DOC rating, also available in white and rosé) or the house red from San Cipirello in the Palermo hinterland, if not special whites such as those from the Castiglione area.