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By train

There are regular rail services between Zagreb and Rijeka (4hrs) and Zagreb and Split (6hrs 30mins) – but no rail services along the coast itself, on the islands or between Zagreb and Dubrovnik. Rail fares are cheap in Croatia, and services reliable, although the high-speed train to Split is not as high-speed as might be expected (and suffered a major derailing in 2009). Faster, intercity trains are called brzi vlak; slower, local trains are called putnički vlak.

Buy tickets in advance (it costs more to pay on the train, and during the summer seats get booked up, especially the high-speed train to Split). Seat reservations are compulsory for international services and the high-speed service to Split, but not for local trains (note that if buying a return ticket, the seat reservation will be for the outward journey only – you’ll still need to make a seat reservation for the return journey at the departure station for that part of your journey). A return (povratna karta) is cheaper than two singles, and two people travelling together can get a joint ticket (zajednička karta) at a reduced price (but there’s only one ticket and you’ll both have to travel together for the full journey including the return). See www.hznet.hr for timetables and fares (click on ‘HŽ Putnički prijevoz’, then select language, then click on ‘timetables’).