Читать книгу The Pennine Way - the Path, the People, the Journey онлайн

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I posed for a few photos by the smart new Pennine Way wall plaque and carved oak gate, which shows the route in a central panel. Both were specially installed in April 2015 by the Peak District National Park Ranger Service as part of the Pennine Way’s 50th anniversary. Across the lane stood the Old Nags Head, a handsome and historic pub, long associated with both the trail and the rambling movement generally. So, too, is the aptly named Rambler Inn just down the road, once called the Church Hotel and also popular with Pennine Wayfarers. But 9.30 in the morning is too early to be in a pub, even if it happens to be open, and I had a long way to walk.

The weather seemed rather muted, too, with the leaden skies of north Derbyshire making for a grey and rather silent Edale valley. After leaving the village and crossing a couple of fields, I reached the top of a short slope and paused to take stock. I recall two thoughts quite clearly. First, after all the preparation and planning, I was actually walking the Pennine Way – it had begun, it was for real! Forget all the chatter, just get on and walk the damn thing. The second was that it wasn’t raining. If this sounds pessimistic, it was largely because the forecast for the day was poor and I had set off in a heavy waterproof coat. But now, having plodded uphill, I was hot, so I peeled off an outer layer and immediately felt fresher and more alive to my surroundings. I confidently resumed my stride across the hillside towards the head of the valley. I could really tackle just about anything now, I told myself. Within half an hour, it was raining.