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Some short but lung-busting climbs were needed to finally exit the Calder valley and leave the colourful denizens of Hebden Bridge behind. The noise and bustle far below fell silent as I steadily made my way up across sloping pasture and deserted lanes towards the expanse of Heptonstall Moor.

Before I climbed the last field, I took a breather and veered off to visit Highgate Farm, just off the route. This is the site of a small but legendary shop known as May’s Aladdin’s Cave. It all began 35 years ago when farmer’s wife May Stocks was asked by some passing Pennine Way walkers if she could spare any fresh milk or eggs for their breakfast. This kept happening, so she asked what else they needed and, as her daughter-in-law told me across the counter, it just grew and grew. The converted stable building is crammed full of everything Pennine Way walkers could possibly want – hence the Aladdin’s Cave tag – from toiletries and newspapers to tinned food and cold pies, fresh fruit and home-made cakes to ice creams, bottled beer, and spare hats and socks. There’s a deli counter, fresh sandwiches and jars of sweets.

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