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E4 Trail: looking down the great scree slope. The road to Kallergi refuge is seen on the opposite hillside

Leave Xyloscala on the east side via the footpath signboard, which reads 1hr 20mins to Kallergi. Within 40mins join the shepherds’ road from the plateau and continue up on this – optional shortcuts occasionally appear. A small stone-built corbelled shepherds’ shelter with a World War II memorial plaque marks the top. Kallergi is in sight, 5mins away. (Keep right – sometimes thick mist envelops the clifftop.)

WALK 5

Kallergi Refuge to Melendaou

Start/Finish Kallergi Refuge 1680m (5511ft) Distance 16km (10 miles) Grade C Time Kallergi to Poria 1500m (4921ft) 50mins; Poria to top of ridge at Psari 1817m (5902ft) 1hr 10mins; ridge walk to Melendaou saddle 1900m (6233ft) 1hr; saddle to summit 1hr 15mins; ascent total: 4hrs 15mins; descent: summit to Kallergi 2hrs 30mins via E4 Trail; total: 6hrs 45mins Highest point Melendaou 2133m (6998ft) Height gain 483m (1583ft) Access Walk 4 from Xyloscala, or shepherds’ road from Omalos

Using Kallergi Refuge as a convenient starting point, Melendaou 2133m (6998ft) – towering to the northeast above the Samaria Gorge – can be reached as a day-walk, allowing non-backpackers a chance of views towards the heart of the range. As it is on the regular schedule of walking groups staying at Kallergi, this route is well-tramped and partly waymarked. Kallergi is 50mins’ walk, on the shepherds’ road, to the base of the long ridge leading up to Melendaou. For a circular walk, approach the peak from along the top of this ridge and then return to Kallergi by dropping down (on the waymarked E4 Trail) to the shepherds’ road alongside it.