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Village vineyards feature on a wide saddle beyond the pine forest. Descend via the road and sections of footpath, E4-waymarked, to this saddle with its large concrete water tank (locked). Continue down the road, passing a waterpoint and concrete ‘washboard’ terrace before you enter the village.

Koustoyerako has two kafeneia, but they are unlikely to be open. A Souyia taxi can be called, but expect to wait because they are usually busy. There are no rooms because Koustoyerako villagers channel their enterprise into the beach resort of Souyia. However, trekking groups sometimes camp here (enquire).

Koustoyerako to Souyia

The footpath down to Livada village (30mins) starts alongside the kafeneon (closed) near the War Memorial, on the plateia. A delightful path in the spring, this old mule track negotiates the steep vegetated hillside, losing height through shady olive groves and across flower-strewn terracing. Turn left, south, when you reach the main road to walk (for 30mins) through Livada and downhill as far as a T-junction, where a dirt road heads due south. Follow this dirt road for the remaining 1hr walk to Souyia. When you reach a T-junction, turn left, uphill, to find the E4 sparsely waymarked footpath section down to the riverbed. Alternatively, turn right and follow the road down to the riverbed.