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Rethymnon (‘Reth-theem-no’) old town is very compact. The bus station is about 15mins’ walking distance from the dock. A Venetian walled citadel, the Fortezza, dominates the town. Keeping this on your right, make your way southwest across town. The bus station, already relocated from a more central position, is once again too small and an extension, or perhaps another relocation, may happen. For a supermarket, its windows somewhat confusingly blanked out, on the main road, take a flight of steps at the back of the building.

Note Although the afternoon bus to Anoyeia stops to pick up passengers at Plateia Iroon (at the eastern end of the old town), the early morning departure for the Milopotamos valley (Anoyeia) does not, as it is a school bus.

Arriving in the evening

Flights may arrive after the last KTEL buses to trailhead destinations have left, and after town shops have closed. Immediate taxi transfers to the countryside save time, but mountain trekkers and campers arriving late will need to bring cash with them and start from villages with supermarkets (see individual route notes), or bring their own food supplies. Informal accommodation in mountain villages closes up at about 2200. In general, from Chania Airport allow 1hr 30mins for taxi journeys to Omalos or Askifou, and 2hrs 30mins to Anopolis. From Heraklion Airport allow 1hr 30mins for a taxi transfer to Zaros, and 1hr for Anoyeia. (Note There is no accommodation at Knossos village on the outskirts of Heraklion. Site opening hours April–October are 0800–2000. The site is usually very busy with tour groups as from 0830.)