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Chania–Omalos and Xyloscala

When the Samaria Gorge is closed, a year-round village service to Lakki (on the Omalos road) terminates at the next nearby village. However, when the gorge is being prepared for opening, normally by 1 May, a skeleton service reaches Xyloscala. The service expands a little when the gorge is busy. Check the timetable in advance at Chania bus station: local people on the Omalos route are uncertain of the changing timetable. KTEL buses pass through Omalos hamlet (called ‘Omalos hotels’ by the bus crew) on the way to and from Xyloscala (3km), but drivers do not stop to pick up more passengers if the bus is full. From Chania there may be three early morning bus departures, two of which return immediately from Xyloscala. There is no afternoon bus from Xyloscala to Chania. To get around all this, certain Omalos proprietors run a Xyloscala ‘trailhead’ mini-bus service for their guests. If there are spare seats they will sell tickets to non-guests.

KTEL sells a round-tour ticket for the Samaria Gorge excursion (walking it yourself without a tour guide), which covers Chania–Xyloscala and the return bus journey, usually from Hora Sfakion rather than Souyia (enquire). The cost of the boat trip from Ay. Roumeli is separate (purchase tickets at Ay. Roumeli). For a day trip, therefore, buy this ticket, with its reserved seat from Hora Sfakion, and, during busy periods, buy it the night before. The KTEL round should give you more time in the gorge than an organised tour, although this can depend on the boat schedule from Ay. Roumeli, which also varies according to demand. Eliminate these unwelcome pressures by staying overnight in Ay. Roumeli (Walk 2), where there are plenty of facilities. As a rule, the first boat leaves Ay. Roumeli for Hora Sfakion (via Loutro) at about noon; journey time is 50mins, but check the latest timetable.