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The Tourist Information and Tourist Police office is in the Town Hall, a modern building in Kydonias, east of Plateia 1866. The National Bank of Greece, opposite the Agora, has an ATM; the GPO and OTE (public telephones) are close by in Janakaki Street. OTE operates telephone booths: some street kiosks sell phone cards, as well as stamps. A phone shop, just west of Plateia Makris Kritis (Battle of Crete Square) deals with cell phone requirements as does Vodafone, in Skalidi.

Walking sticks, or katsounas, shepherds’ crooks, traditional to Sfakia, are on sale in souvenir shops in or near Halidon. When choosing one, turn it upside down to check the length from the handle. Even if cut down, it should be a minimum of 5cm (2ins) above the waist to be useful on descents.

Heraklion

A range of similar shops, including a fruit and vegetable street market, are found in and around the ‘honeypot’ downtown area of Dikiosinis Street and Plateia Venizelou (Morosini fountain).

Rethymnon

In the old quarter head for the Porta Guora (Plateia Martyron) to find a useful bunch of shops: household goods, fruit and vegetables, a bakery and a bookshop nearby (enquire) stocking maps and foreign language books.