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Caves

Potholes are more common than caves; there are few accessible open-sided caves that provide shelter. As a rule, those that do exist are much used by (flea-ridden) sheep and goats eager for shade. Visit the EOS website (see Appendix D) for information on cave exploration.

Photography

Greece is famous for the quality of its light; photographically speaking, there is ‘light in the shadows’. However, there are variations: light is crisp and contrasty early in the year, but in summer a haze develops. In the autumn, as if compensating for the absence of greenery, the haze clears and mellows attractively, offering a wider exposure latitude. In particular, the Madares (Treks 1–9) look their best at this time, but shadows are denser at high altitude. In general, soft early morning light is gone by 0830 but evenings, after 1800, offer more scope.

Water

Thanks to winter snowfall in the mountains, towns and villages throughout Crete are supplied with good water from underground sources. Tap water is normally safe to drink, although it may come via a rooftop tank rather than the mains supply. Town supplies are chlorinated. Bottled water is widely available. Route notes in this guide mention shepherds’ cisterns, many of which hold palatable water. In the high mountains, after snow has thawed, nothing is more important than the whereabouts of cisterns and springs, and it is useful to learn how to find and take care of this water. You may also be able to collect a litre or two on a waterproof sheet when it rains – helpful if you are delayed by mist.