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It is not usually necessary to book a long way ahead, with the exception of the Italian public holidays: 1 January (New Year), 6 January (Epiphany), Easter Sunday and Monday, 25 April (Liberation Day), 1 May (Labour Day), 2 June (Republic Day), 15 August (Ferragosto), 1 November (All Saints), 8 December (Immaculate Conception), 25–26 December (Christmas and Boxing Day). Weekends are naturally busier too, especially in the art cities such as Florence and Siena.

When calling an Italian landline, always include the first 0 of the area code. On the other hand, numbers beginning with 3 (mobile numbers) and emergency numbers need to be dialled as they stand, ie without a zero. If ringing from overseas, preface all Italian telephone numbers with +39.

Rifugio Battisti

Food and wine

A guide to Tuscany could hardly be considered complete without at least a passing mention of the vast culinary delights in store for visitors. And walking demands substantial nourishment.

A visit to a fresh produce market is a good introduction to local fare. In addition to the season’s fruit and vegetables, which come in colourful photogenic stacks, suggestions for picnics include tangy ewe’s milk cheese, pecorino, although a request for un formaggio locale (a local cheese) will always turn up something interesting. A must-taste for carnivores is finocchiona, a soft garlicky salami-type sausage flavoured with wild fennel seeds, which melts in the mouth. With a bit of luck there’ll also be an open-sided van selling porchetta, luscious roast suckling pig flavoured with herbs galore and served in thick slices. These can be consumed with the typical saltless bread sold in huge floury loaves at the panificio (bakery). In addition to the markets, delicatessens and supermarkets unfailingly have tempting displays, and most will make up fresh rolls (panini) on the spot with your choice of filling.