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All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI

For Tamara and Ivana

Acknowledgements

First and foremost I would like to thank Endrit Shima and Ricardo Fahrig at Zbulo and Vlatko Bulatović at Zalaz for all their help, support and enthusiasm during the time I researched and wrote this guide, for which I am extremely grateful. It’s people like you who help make this such an amazing part of the world to visit, so a very sincere faleminderit shumë and mnogo vam hvala to all three of you. Thanks are also due to Ahmet Reković in Plav, Pavlin Polia and family in Theth, Vucija Martić in Plav, Armend Alija and family in Babino polje, Montor Bojku in Pejë, Emma and Ben Heywood in Virpazar, Hayley Wright in Herceg Novi, and Nicky Brown at Black Sheep and Germania for generously providing flights to Pristina on my last trip to Prokletije. And to my wife Ivana, with whom I first fell in love with Prokletije in the early noughties.

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