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Podgorica airport is actually almost as close to Lake Skadar National Park as it is to Podgorica, so staying in Virpazar (from where there are buses to Podgorica) is another possibility, with some kayaking or a wine tour thrown in for good measure – contact Undiscovered Montenegro for accommodation in Virpazar or tours in the Lake Skadar region (www.undiscoveredmontenegro.com).

Podgorica to Plav

Around five buses a day make the 4hr journey from Podgorica bus station to Plav. Buses do sometimes fill up, so it’s worth buying your ticket as soon as you get to the bus station. Bus times from Podgorica can be found at www.busterminal.me/timetable.

View across Lake Plav towards the mouth of the Ropojana Valley (Stage 8)

Podgorica to Theth or Valbona

By public transport, this is a less direct route than Podgorica–Plav. There are two buses a day from Podgorica to Skhodër in Albania (journey time 90mins, timetables at www.busterminal.me/timetable), from where you can take another bus along the steep road to Theth (journey time 2hrs 30mins, usually departing early in the morning). Alternatively – and more scenically – take a bus from Skhodër to Koman (2hrs), from where you can take the ferry across Lake Koman, following the flooded course of the River Drin (timetables at komanilakeferry.com/newsite and www.komanilake.com/ferry-transport) – this ferry ride being the main reason for following this route. Of the two ferry operators, Berisha and Mario Molla, the latter offers the advantage of including ferry and connecting minibus services in one single booking. Otherwise, from Fierze where the ferry arrives at the north end of the lake, take a minibus to Bajram Curri (minibuses meet the ferry, as do taxis so make sure you know which one you’re getting by asking the fare); and from there, a minibus to Valbona (one service daily, journey time 45mins) – otherwise, a taxi from Bajram Curri to Valbona will cost around €25. Valbona is scattered along the valley for several kilometres, so let the bus/taxi driver know the name of the guesthouse you’re staying at to make sure you get dropped off nearby.